Conditions for growing radishes. Growing radishes: how to achieve a harvest When to thin out radishes

Radishes are one of the tastiest and healthiest plants you can grow in your garden. To grow radishes, you need to know some of the features of this crop, in particular, to study the agricultural technology of growing radishes. Only with the right approach can you get a good harvest.

Radish is an annual plant. It can be characterized as an early ripening, moisture-loving and light-loving plant, resistant to cold weather.

As a rule, radishes belonging to the European group are grown in our latitudes. This variety has an annual development cycle, that is, the ripening of roots and seeds occurs within one season. There are also biennial radishes. In this variety, roots ripen in the first year, and seeds in the second.

The use of radish in food helps to eliminate vitamin deficiency. This is especially true in early spring. This effect is provided due to the high content of B vitamins, vitamin C and other useful substances in radishes.

Necessary conditions for sowing

To get a rich harvest, it is necessary to provide certain conditions for radishes.

Radishes take root well only if they are planted in loose and light soil. This garden crop does not tolerate drought, so the soil must be well moistened. The soil environment should be neutral or slightly alkaline. The area where radishes are planned to be planted in the spring is recommended to be plowed and mineral fertilizers applied to the soil in the fall.

Before planting radishes, it is advisable to fertilize the soil with rotted compost and wood ash. For 1 sq. m. use half a bucket and 200 g of fertilizer, respectively. If you are planning early sowing, then it is recommended to make beds for radishes quite high (15-18 cm). The beds must be loosened before sowing. Landing should be done in an area that is well warmed by the sun.

Radishes love sunlight, so they need to provide bright lighting. If daylight hours last more than 13 hours, then it is desirable to darken the radish. Otherwise, the sprouts will bloom. The optimum temperature for radishes is in the range of 16 to 18 degrees. The plant does not tolerate temperatures over 20 degrees. Radishes can germinate even at +3 degrees, and already sprouted sprouts can withstand light frosts (up to -3 degrees).

Growing, you can get a harvest every 2-3 weeks. You can start growing radishes in a greenhouse immediately after the topsoil thaws (up to 10 cm).

Radish seeds should be planted in furrows that should be kept moist. Seeds can be soaked before sowing, or they can be planted dry. They should be placed approximately at a depth of 2 cm. The distance between them in the bed should be about 5 cm, and the distance between rows should be 10 cm. Until the first shoots appear, it is recommended to cover the beds with foil. This will help retain heat and moisture in the soil. The seeds should germinate in about a week. If necessary, seedlings can be thinned out.

Radish needs regular moderate watering.

If the plant does not have enough moisture, then the roots will grow tough and bitter. If you water radishes excessively, the root crops may crack. You can feed the plant with mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to use easily soluble forms.

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Pest and disease control

The main threat to radishes is cabbage flies and cruciferous fleas. Protection against these pests will be provided by spraying with an infusion based on wood ash and tobacco dust, the components must first be sieved. The use of pesticides is strictly prohibited.

If carried out on soil that has an acidic environment, then root crops can be affected by a viral disease - clubroot. If this happens, then growths will form on the root crops. affected plants must be destroyed, and to prevent the spread of the disease, the soil must be treated with special disinfectants.

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The subtleties of growing

Sometimes the radish behaves unusually, in such cases it is necessary to perform additional actions on the plant. For example, if the sprouts are too stretched, then the beds need to be hilled. If yellowness forms on the tops, then you need to feed them with fertilizer containing nitrogen. The soil must contain a sufficient amount of potassium, otherwise the root crop will not form. It is best to grow radishes in the place where potatoes, legumes, cucumbers or tomatoes grew before. But in the soil into which manure has recently been introduced, it is impossible to plant radishes. In addition, cruciferous root vegetables and cabbage are not the best predecessors for this plant.

If you want to get radish seeds for further sowing, then you need to plant radishes under the film and at an early date. Hybrid varieties are not suitable for obtaining seeds, since they do not pass on all their qualities to offspring. To obtain seeds, you need to choose the largest plants, cut the tops on them so that cuttings about 3-5 cm long remain. After about three weeks, a powerful stem will appear, which can reach 80 cm. When the pods in which the seeds are located open on the seed stalk, it can be cut.

Radish is one of the first greetings of the coming summer that we can taste. Of the popular vegetables widely grown in our gardens, radish is the record holder for precocity.

Early varieties give full-fledged root crops in 26-28 days from the date of germination. At the same time, radishes are not afraid of spring frosts and do not require close attention from the gardener. Let's look at the issue of growing this wonderful vegetable in more detail!

When can you sow radishes?

You can sow as soon as the soil has melted to such a state that you can make a bed. The sooner you sow, the better. The earliest shoots will have time to get away from the main scourge of a young radish - a cruciferous flea. In the middle lane, radishes are sown in the month of April, or at the very beginning of May.

Is it possible to sow radishes before winter?

In principle, it is possible to sow, but most likely there will be no sense. The fact is that the seeds germinate very quickly, and at the lowest positive temperature. That is, most likely, your radish will rise soon after planting, and what will come out of it next is unknown. Yes, yes, it is unknown, I did not make a reservation.

There is no guarantee that it will definitely disappear. If it is covered with snow, then it will overwinter and continue to grow in the spring. And if there are frosts of 6-7 degrees, and there is no snow yet, then the radish will freeze. I'm talking about places where frosts are rarely below 20 degrees, in Siberia such a number will not work.

In general, winter sowing is pampering. It is better to sow normally, "like everyone else", in April-May.

If you love radishes and eat a lot of them, then sow a little after 2 weeks. there are varieties that are resistant to bolting - they can be sown all summer, except for the very peak of June.

Nevertheless, radishes are a short-day plant, and on long summer days they are unlikely to please with good quality root crops. starting from August, you can again sow all the "regular" varieties of radishes, until mid-September.

Where to sow?

To the ground! Light loam is what you need. Add ashes to the bed, a bucket of compost per meter. If the earth is heavy, then you can add peat, sand ... But keep in mind that radish does not like acidic soil, it does not grow well on it. It grows normally in sand, but only if it is watered frequently.

It is worth forgetting about watering for a few days - and the root crops turn out to be small, hard and tasteless. on loam it is easier - there moisture does not leave so quickly.

You can not plant a radish in a garden where cabbage or any other cruciferous relatives grew before it.

By the way, you should not plant next to cabbage and other cruciferous plants either, because there is an increased risk of luring cruciferous fleas in large numbers.

The less the bed with radish stands out, the better. Mask it on the sides with onions, garlic, carrots, dill and other plants with a bright aroma.

How to sow?

It is easy to sow - in shallow grooves, lightly sprinkling with earth. In general, the seeds of most cruciferous plants can germinate and grow even if they are not sprinkled with earth at all, but it must be borne in mind that they will need high humidity for successful rooting, because this method can only be sown if you are a very lazy person, or if you have radishes in a greenhouse where you can provide high humidity for the period of seed germination.

Care, cultivation.


Radishes grow very quickly in the right conditions. You won't have time to look back - but she has already grown up, and she has even been eaten. And it's good if we ate it ourselves. and not cruciferous fleas in half with wireworm.

As far as possible, the ascended radish should be thinned out, leaving a distance of at least 5 centimeters between plants. If you leave 10 centimeters, then the probability of obtaining large root crops will increase. And if you leave 15 centimeters, then this will already be a bust and a waste of usable space.

It is impossible to leave less than 5 centimeters between plants - radishes are very photophilous, and when shading by neighboring plants, the crop is greatly removed.

By the way, radish tops are quite edible., it can be added to salads. So it makes sense to thin out the bed not immediately, but after a week and a half or two, when there is something to cut into a salad.

Watering, in the absence of rain and dry soil, is necessary. Poor watering leads to a sharp decrease in yield and its quality.

It is not necessary to feed if the bed is initially normally filled with compost and ash. But if you notice something is wrong (the leaves turn yellow, starting with the old ones), then you can pour urea once, a tablespoon per bucket.

How to get an early harvest of radishes?


Although radishes germinate already at a temperature of + 4 + 6 degrees, the optimum temperature will be in the region of + 16 + 20 degrees. For this reason, and also because of the precocity of the vegetable, it is often grown in greenhouses before the subsequent tomato crop.

By the way, radishes, like other cruciferous plants, heal the soil well.

Also, for the purpose of an earlier harvest, it is possible to build a film shelter, such as a tunnel greenhouse, over a garden bed with radishes. This very greenhouse, again, will serve as a good shelter from the cruciferous flea, be it wrong.

Pests.

Radishes grow very quickly, and therefore many common pests, such as aphids, caterpillars, wireworms, etc. he is not particularly afraid. The radish has really two enemies.

The first radish pest is the cruciferous flea, be it three times wrong. She is terrible only in that with great appetite she pounces on barely sprouted plants and devours them in a few days. These fleas cannot do much harm to large plants. Therefore, it is important to protect seedlings to the stage of the appearance of several true leaves.

The most reliable way is mechanical protection, such as an insurmountable barrier. Film greenhouse or spunbond in arcs. Which is better - it's hard to say, I prefer the film. Firstly, under the film humidity - you can water less. Secondly, radish is photophilous, and the film transmits more light.

But spunbond has its own well-known advantages - it allows air to pass through, and under it the radish will not burn if the sun suddenly starts to bake in the middle of the day. Under the film, if you do not leave cracks, the whole radish may burn.

Well, the second enemy of the radish is the bear. It is especially harmful in the greenhouse, where it crawls to bask in early spring. And here she is on - radish fields .. Not life, but a fairy tale. , but fortunately, the bears are also unlikely to have time to gobble up the entire radish in the month that it grows. But in the open field, all the same, the bear does not have time to spoil the radish as much as in the greenhouse.

A little about the benefits and composition of radishes.

The very first summer vegetable "to the eyeballs" is filled with vitamins. Radish contains a large amount of vitamin C, especially red fruits can boast of this.

Literally a few pieces will be enough to replenish the body with a daily allowance and support the immune system. Also in this root crop there is a lot of potassium, which is able to regulate metabolic processes and strengthen the cardiovascular system.

It is worth remembering that radishes are “undersized” radish fruits, which were initially simply rejected and thrown away. Back in the 16th century, a French breeder brought out a completely new culture from rejected plants - and this is how the radish turned out. Today, this early root crop is loved all over the world.

Radishes come in different colors but have the same taste. In many varieties, not only root crops are used for food, but also tops, since it tastes similar to ordinary white cabbage.

Has a radish and contraindications. With caution, you need to use root crops for people with diseases of the kidneys, liver and gout, gastritis, as well as for peptic ulcer of the stomach and duodenum.

Well, actually, about the radish and that's it. As usual, we are waiting for your comments on the article, write your radish stories or questions!

As soon as the first shoots of vegetables began to appear in the garden, many are interested in when to thin out carrots, beets, radishes and other plants, and how to do it correctly. As you may already know, seedlings are thinned out to produce larger fruits so that each vegetable / plant has enough sun, moisture and nutrients for growth.

Basic rules for thinning seedlings in the beds:

The earth should be damp so that it is easy to pull out extra shoots.

We remove the weak, smaller in growth, leaving the strongest and largest seedlings.

The first thinning of most vegetables should be done in the cotyledon phase.

We repeat the second mainly in a couple of weeks, and now you should leave those shoots that will be with you to the end. That is, leave the distance between different plants, following individual indications.

When pulling out a seedling, it is better to hold the ground next to it.

Once everything has been thinned out, compact the soil and water.

There is an opinion that beet seedlings during thinning should not be pulled out of the ground, but the extra ones should be cut off with scissors. But, as verified by the many years of experience of our grandmothers, ordinary pulling will not harm the remaining beet shoots. On the contrary, if you leave unnecessary roots in the ground, the process of decay will begin.

Thinning out the beets

We carry out the first pulling when the beets already have 3 leaves, the second - when 5-6 leaves have already grown, in the end, the distance between shoots should be 8-10 cm. If you did not sow the seeds very thickly, then you can transplant the interfering beets. If it grows thickly, then we thin out and simply throw away the excess. You can also transplant more radishes - in the evening after the rain.

Thinning radishes

Radishes are the very first to grow in the garden, and they need to be thinned out first - as soon as shoots appear. Leave between the radishes you need 5-7 cm.

Carrot.

Thin out carrots without a single doubt. The first thinning is carried out when 2 true leaves appear, leaving 2 cm between the carrots, the second - when there are already 5 sheets, this time we will leave about 4-5 cm between the root crops. Carrots do not need a lot of space, otherwise the forces will go to growth, and not to taste, its quality will decrease.

Cucumbers.

Cucumbers are thinned out, leaving 10 cm between them in a row, it is better to leave 50 cm between rows.

You also need to thin out rutabagas, parsnips, parsley, head lettuce, turnips, radishes, bush dill. See thinning table ( click on the plate and it will open in a larger size).

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but you should not repeat this experience in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all sorts of pegs, garters, loops, ready-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of fixing the plant in an upright position has its own advantages and "side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous for both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article, we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection products and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of drugs to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and without extra costs.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub is luxuriously fragrant with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early fragrant berries that summer generously endows us with. How we rejoice in this harvest! In order for the "berry boom" to repeat every year, we need to take care of the care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring, and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but the process is laborious and time consuming. According to my recipe, it’s easy to cook pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and a spicy snack will be ready by the evening. The watermelon marinated with spices and chili is stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of preservation - chilled, this snack is just licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest - blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick Chickpea Soup with Vegetables and Egg is an easy recipe for a hearty first course inspired by Oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and the countries of Southeast Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in melted butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter in a saucepan, this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who does not know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent harvests, pleases with its variety in terms of ripening and a huge choice of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses to grow her on her plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many ornamental and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from the sun's rays, enhanced by the reflection from the snow. In this article we will talk about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Each vegetable has its own time”, and each plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has experienced planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in spring, the plants have not yet started to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat, and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chili con carne in Spanish means chili with meat. This is a Texan and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and minced beef. In addition to the main products, there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, burning, very satisfying and amazingly tasty! You can cook a large pot, arrange in containers and freeze - a whole week will be a delicious dinner.

Cucumber is one of the most beloved garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point in the cultivation of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely organic, healthy fruits and vegetables in his own garden. The microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Usually, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants there are many beautifully flowering species. In the summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and the optimal duration of daylight hours, they are able to outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.

There are several persistent misconceptions associated with radishes.

Misconception 1. Our grandmothers radishes were tastier than now.

Taste is a relative concept. One likes bitter radishes, while the other likes sweet root crops. The bitterness of radish is given by substances, the accumulation of which mainly depends on the gardener himself. Root crops turn out sweet only against the background of abundant and timely watering, and the lack of moisture in combination with hot weather always contributes to their "chagrin". Nevertheless, breeders are also not sitting idly by: many modern varieties (Carmen, Spartak, French Breakfast, etc.) are practically devoid of bitterness, and Pharaoh, Mercado and Tenderness leave a pleasant bitterness in the aftertaste. In addition, new varieties and hybrids of radish are better than "grandmother's" not only in taste: they are more productive, attractive, and also resistant to day length and flowering.

Misconception 2. Radish can only be grown in a greenhouse - pests eat it clean in the open field.

In fact, an attentive and diligent gardener manages radishes in the open field no worse than in a greenhouse, and sometimes even faster. Although the main pest of radish seedlings, the cruciferous flea beetle, is not dormant, there are several affordable and environmentally friendly ways to deal with it. What we can do?

Photo: AiF / Diana Yanaeva

Spoil the flea "lunch". The meaning of the reception is to give the leaves a foreign smell and taste. This includes: dusting with ash, tobacco dust, ground mustard and other odorous powders or spraying with infusions of wormwood, dandelion, garlic, vinegar solution, etc. All these measures have a short-term effect, but reduce the number of bugs.

Take away the "zhor". The flea beetle is especially active on hot, dry days and in dry soil. Frequent watering of radishes not only “waters” the plants, but also deters the pest.

Create a barrier. Covering radish crops with a thin white non-woven material has proven itself well. It is pulled over small arcs immediately after sowing. The "cap" provides not only protection against fleas, but also the preservation of moisture in the soil for the emergence of seedlings, as well as the protection of young sprouts from possible frosts. It would be useful to pre-dust the soil with ash or tobacco after sowing along the perimeter of the shelter.

In general, the cruciferous flea is dangerous only at the initial stage of growth of radish plants. In the future, she is not afraid of him. After a leaf rosette of 5-6 leaves has formed, protective measures can be canceled.

Photo: AiF / Diana Yanaeva

Misconception 3. To make the root crops juicy, you need to add a lot of manure to the soil.

The juiciness of radishes depends primarily on watering, which is especially important at the time the roots begin to thicken. Nutrients in the soil play a secondary role: against the background of excessive doses of organic matter, lush “tops” are obtained, but unimportant “roots”. The ideal soil moisture during the entire growing period is 75-80%. At the same time, it is important not to flood the radishes, especially when the plants are already approaching harvesting: the leaves cover the soil and moisture does not evaporate so quickly from its surface. As for organic matter, for the growth and development of this early ripe crop, it is quite enough to add humus or decomposed compost (usually half a bucket per 1 m2) during the autumn digging of the soil.

Misconception 4. Radishes are best grown in the shade. In the sun, root crops turn out "wooden" and tasteless.

In fact, radishes need good lighting and only tolerate temporary shading. In the shade, it grows for a long time, but at best it gives only small root crops (and at worst - one tops). The misconception arose due to the fact that this culture is very fond of moisture. Root crops in the open field are obtained juicy and with a delicate skin only with abundant and timely watering. If plants are left unattended in heat and drought, radishes will be rough and bitter.

Misconception 5. It is not necessary to specially thin out the thick seedlings of radishes - you still have to pull out the root-fruits for food.

Photo: AiF / Diana Yanaeva Thinning radish seedlings is an indispensable element of technology. Extra plants that interfere with observing a “step” in a row of 5 cm or more must be removed without any pity. In cramped conditions, radishes will not form roots of the proper size, and if the entire bed is thickened, then the chance to grow powerful “tops” instead of “roots” increases. The root crops of this culture ripen together - it makes no sense to hope for an extended harvest.

Misconception 6. It is impossible to understand: when is it time to harvest radishes?

It is considered that radishes are ready for harvesting if their root crops have reached a diameter of 2.5 cm or more. Some varieties are able to give out larger "roots", and some are not. The plant, ready for harvest, has a developed rosette of leaves. If you leave it in the garden, it will move on to a new phase of growth - the formation of the main stem. You can notice this by the fact that the sheet rosette rises higher. This is a signal that it is time to pull out the radish - it will not become larger and tastier.